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Whether you're seeking to emulate a Sixties bouffant, amp the ante on a classic updo or simply create some tousled movement throughout lengths, voluminous hair never goes out of style. But if you were born with fine hair, or your hair has become thinner over the years, achieving the volume you want can seem impossible without backcombing your roots into oblivion.
With the stress of 2020 combined with long term health issues associated with Covid-19, more people than ever are reporting hair thinning and hair loss. Excessive hair shedding, medically known as telogen effluvium (TE), is a form of temporary alopecia or hair loss caused by hormonal stress or severe systemic infections.
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On average, a person has around 5-10% of their hair in what's known as the teleogen phase, which is when the hair shreds and falls out. However, someone with TE will have around 30% of their hair in the telogen phase, causing a noticeable increase in hair loss and the appearance of thinning.
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Luckily, there are a number of things you can do, both at home and with the help of your hairdresser, to boost hair volume and create the appearance of natural thickness. We've called upon the best in the business to share their foolproof hair volume hacks...
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BOOK IN FOR A MICRO-TRIM
According to celebrity hair stylist and salon owner George Northwood, one of the best things you can do to boost volume is to book in for regular micro-trims at your hairdressers. "In order to add volume to fine or thin hair, first we need to add to the hair texture to make it appear and feel thicker," he says. "Micro-trims are great at this, simply taking the most minute ends off your hair every six weeks can help the hair look more thick and healthy. Keeping it at a shorter length can also give the illusion of a thicker head of hair. Now you will have a great base for styling and adding volume."
AVOID LAYERS
Layers can look amazing (case in point, Rachel from Friends), but if you want to create maximum possible volume, layers are not a good idea. "Excessive layering can take all of the volume out of the hair making it look quite flat and lifeless. My advice is to keep thinner hair all one length. Ideally a short, shoulder-length bob or any kind of blunt style can create a thicker, fuller appearance," says George.
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GET THE RIGHT CUT FOR YOUR HAIR TYPE
While micro trims and a zero layers policy are great foundations for fuller looking hair, you'll also want to make sure you select the right cut to suit your hair type.
"If you have fine hair, it’s all about adding or keeping your fringe," says Larry King, top hair stylist, salon owner and GLAMOUR columnist . "Keeping hair looking full around the perimetry is great for creating volume. If you’ve got curly hair, then you want a blunter cut with a few layers. This will create defined, volumous curls."
ADD VOLUME WITH YOUR BLOW DRY
According to George, one of the best ways to create volume is during your blow dry. "When blow drying your hair, use a round brush to lift the hair at the roots, introducing warm air beneath the brush at root level," he says. "This will add mega amounts of volume! When you remove the brush, make sure you twist it out of the hair instead of brushing it through, this will make sure the shape and volume of the curls stay intact."
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BACKCOMB THE RIGHT WAY
Backcombing is one of the fastest, cheapest and most reliable way to create instant and impressive volume. However, it can also cause havoc with hair, especially if it's fine, leaving it tangled and frazzled, which can lead to further hair loss.
However, according to the experts, it's possible to backcomb in a way that doesn't damage hair. "Using a comb, insert it into the mid-sections of your hair and gently push down to the root," says George. "Don’t move the comb up and down on the same section of hair as this may cause damage and actually undo the backcomb and all of your hard work."
As to where you should be backcombing, it's best to take a targeted approach. "Only backcomb the sections wherever you want a bit more ‘umph’ and height. This is usually at the crown or at the root, depending on the style you’re going for," advises George. "Before backcombing, hold each section of hair up and spray hairspray or texture spray in at the roots. If you don’t use product before backcombing, the hair can feel too slippery, it needs some texture to add grip."
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INVEST IN THE BEST PRODUCTS
There are a few staple products that the experts call upon to create volume in seconds. "I swear by my Volumizing Hair Mist," says Larry. "It’s great to achieve a maximum amount of volume without leaving a sticky residue but whilst maintaining flexibility & movement. This product is also good on dry hair, it can be sprayed in at the roots to add volume halfway through the day or when you want to re-fresh your style."
George's top product for creating volume is Hair by Sam McKnight Lazy Girl Hair Spray. "Apply some of this dry shampoo to your roots and blast your hair with a hairdryer for a minute, this is a really quick hack which will revitalise your hair and add volume before styling without having to wash it," he says.